Compress JPG

Cut the weight of a JPEG with one slider, without changing how it looks on screen.

Files are processed on our server and not stored. Privacy

Lower is smaller. 70–80 is usually invisible on photos.
Optional. Anything wider is scaled down first.

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Why compress a JPG?

Most JPGs carry more data than the picture needs — the encoder was set high once and nobody changed it again.

Camera and export defaults are generous

Phones, cameras and editors often save at 95–100% quality, which keeps data the eye cannot see and doubles or triples the file. Re-encoding at 75–80% is the single easiest saving there is: on a typical 4–6 MB phone photo it usually removes 40–70% of the weight.

Attachment limits and slow pages

A mailbox that refuses anything over 10 MB, a form that caps uploads at 2 MB, a shop page with twenty product photos: each one is a weight problem. A lighter JPG sends faster, loads faster and uses less mobile data, while looking the same at the size it is shown.

It stays a JPG

The output format defaults to keeping the original, so every program that opened the first file opens the result. Nothing is renamed, nothing needs a new plugin, and the picture is still a plain .jpg you can email, print or upload anywhere.

What the quality slider actually does

Quality does not mean "how good it looks"; it means "how much detail the encoder may drop".

From 100 down to 75

At 100 the encoder keeps almost everything and the file stays large. Between 90 and 75 the savings are already substantial and the difference on a screen is very hard to find; 75 is the default here for exactly that reason. Zoom to 100% on a smooth sky or a face to check what changed.

From 70 down to 50

Gradients begin to band, fine texture turns into flat patches and a faint block pattern appears around edges. It is a reasonable level for a thumbnail or a background where nobody looks closely, and a bad one for a portfolio image or anything that will be printed.

Below 50

Blocks, smearing and colour fringing become obvious at normal size. The file is small, but it is no longer the same picture — if you need to go this far, a smaller width at a higher quality usually looks better for the same weight.

The output never gets bigger

If the upload is already as small as it can be, the tool hands the original file back and says so, instead of returning a heavier re-encode. The result line also shows the exact before and after weight and the percentage saved, so the decision is based on numbers rather than hope.

How to compress a JPG

Three steps, and the default already does something useful.

  1. Add the JPG

    Drag it onto the box, click to browse, or paste it with Ctrl+V (Cmd+V on a Mac). One file per run, up to 25 MB. The original stays untouched on your device.

  2. Lower the quality, and cap the width if you can

    Start at 75 and look at the preview. A maximum width is the stronger lever: a 4000 px photo shown at 1200 px wide carries more than ten times the pixels anyone will see, and scaling it down before encoding shrinks the file and sharpens the on-screen result.

  3. Compare the weight and download

    The result shows both file sizes and the percentage saved. If the saving is not enough, drop the quality another five points and run it again; if the picture looks soft, raise it. One click saves the smaller JPG.

Three tips for smaller JPGs

Compression is the second lever; the pixel count is the first.

Resize first, compress second

Halving both sides of an image removes three quarters of its pixels, and no quality setting can match that. Set the maximum width to the largest size the picture will actually be displayed at, then compress — the result is smaller and looks sharper than a full-size file squeezed hard.

Keep one high-quality master

Every compression pass is lossy, and re-saving a compressed JPG repeatedly builds the damage up. Keep the original or one high-quality export as the master, and always compress from that file rather than from yesterday's compressed copy.

Some pictures are not JPG material

Screenshots, charts, text and flat graphics compress badly in JPG and pick up fuzz around every edge. Those belong in PNG: compressing a PNG rebuilds it on fewer colours and often saves more, and for a photo that has to be a PNG, converting it to JPG is the real fix.

Frequently asked questions

Is this compressor free?

Yes. There is no account, no trial, no credit card and no watermark, and you can compress as many files as you like. A short rate limit keeps one visitor from occupying the server for everyone else.

How much smaller will my JPG get?

It depends on the quality the file was saved at. A camera photo exported at 95–100% commonly drops by 60–75% at quality 75, a moderately compressed file by 20–40%, and an already optimised one barely moves — in that case you get the original back, flagged as already optimised. Capping the width usually adds another large step on top.

Will it be visibly worse?

At 75, on a screen at normal size, it is very hard to tell. What suffers first is fine texture, smooth gradients and small text, so check the preview at 100% before saving something that matters. If the picture is going to print, stay at 85 or above; below about 60 the damage is easy to see.

How large may my JPG be?

Up to 25 MB per file, with the image itself limited to 50 megapixels and a maximum width of 8000 px. If a photo is refused as too large, set a maximum width instead of fighting the limit — that also produces the smaller file you were after.

What happens to my files?

Files are processed on our server and not stored. The JPG is re-encoded as it arrives and only the compressed copy is sent back to your browser.